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Setup

Brew Magic Map Page

Assembly and Setup

*WARNING*

FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.

READ AND UNDERSTAND ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING THIS PRODUCT

ASSEMBLY AND SETUP

Please unpack the shipping cartons carefully, keeping in mind that some items are quite breakable. Within the shipping container you will find the following items:

> Brewery framework > Heat exchanger removal wrench

> Boil kettle assembly > 2x sight glasses

> Mash kettle assembly > 6x Tri-Clamps

> Sparge kettle assembly > 9x Tri-Clamp gaskets

> Owner’s manual > Stainless drain tube (mash to boil)

> 3x dial thermometers > 4x castors

> 2 kettle lids > Ball Valve # 3, sparge (see page 5)

> 2x perforated false bottoms > Ball Valve, #1, boil

> Clear Mash whirlpool tubing > Mash inlet tube connector hose / clamps

For shipping purposes, the piping to the SPARGE and MASH kettles, is loosely connected and not in proper position.

Tools required for assembly: > 1/4” wide standard blade screwdriver

> 8” adjustable wrench

> 10” adjustable wrench

1) Carefully remove framework and kettles from shipping carton and base pallet. Look for loosely shipped items in one or more of the kettles.

2) Carefully lay the framework down on the floor on is back exposing the threaded opening in the bottom of each leg. Install the leg castors securely with both of the locking style castors on the unit’s 2 front legs.

3) Place the 3 kettles onto the burner surfaces.

4) Reconnect the 1/2” O.D. stainless steel tube to the outlet ‘tee’, adjacent to valve #2, on the lower left side of the MASH kettle. Refer to the Brew-Magic ‘map’ page in this manual to assist in the location of all valve numbers.

5) Using the extra adjustable hose clamp provided, reconnect the 1/2” O.D. stainless steel tube with the 1/2” I.D. clear plastic tube, located on the exterior, top-right of the MASH kettle.

6) Reconnect the 1/2” O.D. stainless tube to the SPARGE kettle valve #3.

7) Check all fittings and re-tighten as necessary.

8) Two of the three dial thermometers are installed into the bottom front thermometer wells of both BOIL and SPARGE kettles. The third is installed into the Tee under the thermocouple. (See Map page) USE FRESH TEFLON TAPE OR THREAD LUBRICANT EVERY TIME YOU INSTALL GAUGES! These are highly accurate, gas filled, delicate instruments. Each lens is glass. Treat them with respect and store indoors when not in use. Excessive hot or cold temperatures could damage them. Install each into their designated 1/2” coupling. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN! DO NOT TIGHTEN BY TURNING THE GAUGE CASE! Use an adjustable wrench gently applied to the hexagon head of the connection.

9) If you requested Propane burners with your ‘Brew-Magic”, you will find that the system has been shipped with a propane hose with regulator attached and ready to connect to a legally APPROVED propane source. See separate safety pages in this manual for proper storage.

10) Thermocouple Assembly

(For Models with Serial # D-336 and above only)

Your new Brew-Magic is equipped with a Direct Input Thermocouple Assembly. This provides an exceptionally accurate direct data transfer to the onboard microprocessor thermal controller. A stainless probe is in direct contact with the wort that is recirculating from the Mash Kettle. Temperature information is precise and is transferred immediately to the computer. Amazing automated temperature control is the result!

Thermocouple Assembly - continued

Upon receipt of your Brew-Magic you will find that the assembly has already been put together for you. All that remains is for you to do is to disconnect the shipping ties that are used to hold it secure in transit, then connect the assembly directly to the Mash Kettle using the compression fitting (or Tri-Clamp connection if Model 4 or above) found on the lower left of the Mash Kettle. Then connect the bottom of the assembly to the outlet wort piping (see photos)

(A crescent wrench will be needed with compression fittings)

When cleaning and inspecting the probe, disconnect the assembly at the same two fittings used to put it together, then by loosening the stainless hex nut which has been painted red for your easy identification, the entire thermocouple probe & upper probe housing can be extracted from the wort piping. (see photo)

Your Direct Input Thermocouple assembly has been factory calibrated for immediate use. Keep in mind when brewing that the dial thermometer temperature reading may lag slightly behind the digital readout on the brewery’s electrical panel. This is expected. While maintaining a constant temperature however, both thermometer and controller should indicate the same temperature. If they do not, refer to the section of this manual regarding calibration of the temperature controller.

Safety Instructions

WARNING

FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. READ THOROUGHLY THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING THE BREW-MAGIC BREWING SYSTEM.

1) Use this product only outdoors for adequate ventilation and keep unit clear from any combustible materials. Do not operate brewery in a tightly closed room. Combustion of any fuel requires oxygen. Adequate ventilation is a must. Read separate safety regulations page.

2) If an L.P. (liquid propane) supply cylinder is used as the fuel source, it must be constructed and marketed with the specifications for L.P. (liquid propane) gas cylinders of the U.S. Dept. of Transportation (D.O.T.)

ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE CYLINDER MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS

3) Move the BREW MAGIC BREWERY onto firm, level ground before using, for maximum stability. Lock the two front castors to assure the unit does not roll.

4) KEEP CHILDREN AWAY FROM THE BREWERY WHEN IT IS IN OPERATION AND AFTERWARDS WHILE STILL HOT. THEY COULD BE SERIOUSLY BURNED.

5) NEVER LEAVE THE BREWERY UNATTENDED WHILE IN USE. ALWAYS SHUT OFF BURNER TORCHES, AND UNPLUG FROM ELECTRICAL SOURCE WHEN YOU LEAVE IT.

6) NEVER use the BREW MAGIC BREWERY burners for use with any other pots or kettles than those which were designed for this unit. Never put empty aluminum pots over an open flame.

7) NEVER USE THE LOWER STORAGE SHELF OR BURNER TABLE AS A STEP UP FOR THE PURPOSE OF INSPECTING THE UPPER KETTLES. NEVER LEAN A LADDER AGAINST THE BREWERY. BE CAREFUL!

8) BURNER TABLE SURFACES AS WELL AS KETTLES AND PLUMBING, CAN GET VERY HOT WHEN BURNERS OR HEAT EXCHANGER ARE IN USE OR HAVE BEEN USED! USE HEAT RESISTANT GLOVES AND GOOD COMMON SENSE WHEN NEAR HOT SURFACES.

9) Plug your brewery into a 120 volt grounded plug only. FOR YOUR SAFETY THIS UNIT MUST BE PROPERLY GROUNDED! Do not under any circumstances, cut or remove the third (ground) prong from the power cord. If an extension cord is used, it is absolutely necessary that it be a U.L. listed 3-wire grounding type cord.

10) THIS UNIT IS EQUIPPED WITH A GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT BREAKER FOR YOUR PROTECTION. (Installed near the end of the power cord). Ground fault circuit breakers are designed to protect the user against possible electric shock. Should the power to the control panel fail, UNPLUG it first, then reset the ground fault switch by locating and pressing the RESET button. Plug the panel back in. If power is not restored, unplug the unit and call the technical support number. You may test the reliability of the ground fault circuit breaker at any time by pushing the TEST button (adjacent to the RESET button), while the panel is plugged in. The circuit breaker is working properly if after the test button is pressed, all power to the panel is immediately lost. Rest once again to restore power.

11) TO MINIMIZE FURTHER THE POSSIBILITY OF ELECTRIC SHOCK, NEVER OPEN THE CONTROL PANEL OR PUMP MOTOR BOXES WHILE THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN. ALSO, KEEP THE PANEL EXTERIOR DRY AND CLEAN AT ALL TIMES.

12) Empty kettles weigh approximately 30 lbs./each, but when filled with liquid or grain or both, the weight of a kettle can be in excess of 130 lbs.. THINK SAFETY! Never attempt to lift heavy/full kettles from the upper shelf. Pump out excess liquid first or remove as much weight as you can before proceeding.

13) NEVER WEAR LOOSE FITTING OR HANGING GARMENTS WHILE USING THE BREWERY. Flammable material could be ignited if brought in contact with flame or hot burner surfaces and may cause severe burns.

14) Adjust burner flame size so that it does not extend beyond the outer edges of the kettles.

15) Keep all plastics away from burner surfaces.

16) IF YOUR SMELL GAS, TURN OFF ALL 3 GAS VALVES TO THE BURNERS.

Never use an open flame to locate a leak. Be sure all burner surfaces are cool. Check for gas leaks using using a 1 to 1 mixture of liquid detergent and water. Brush mixture onto all gas fittings and joints. If bubbles appear and enlarge, there is a leak. Shut off gas and, using an appropriate wrench, re-tighten the leaky fittings. Repeat the test. DO NOT USE THE BREWERY IF A LEAK CANNOT BE STOPPED! READ THE SECTION OF THIS MANUAL REGARDING SAFETY REGULATIONS FOR USE OF THE ‘BREW-MAGIC BREWERY’ BURNERS!

17) NEVER PUT FACE OR HANDS DIRECTLY OVER A BURNER WHILE LIGHTING.

Safety Instructions - Burners

USE OF ‘BREW-MAGIC’ BURNERS

READ AND SAVE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

DANGER: CARELESS USE OF LP-GAS AND RELATED EQUIPMENT CAN RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS BODILY INJURY FROM ASPHYXIATION, FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION, READ AND FOLLOW ALL OF THE ENCLOSED SAFETY RULES AND INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS MANUAL FOR THE SAFE USE OF THE ‘BREW-MAGIC’ BREWERY BURNERS

18) FOLLOW REQUIREMENTS OF LOCAL STATE AND NATIONAL LP GAS SAFETY CODES. Your LP-gas dealer, your local fire department, and government agencies can help you determine these requirements. In the absence of local codes, comply with the standards for the Storage and Handling of Liquified Petroleum Gases, ANSI/NFP 58-1979. If you have any questions whatsoever with respect to the requirements for LP-gas safety codes, please contact these agencies or Sabco Industries, Inc. (419) 531-5347.

19) DO NOT USE IN UNVENTILATED AREAS.

A. Use of burners in unventilated, lightly enclosed areas or living quarters may cause death or serious bodily injury due to asphyxiation. Adequate ventilation and air is essential to safe operation.

B. If the flame in any burner becomes extinguished, shut off the gas immediately and wait a minimum of five minutes or until you are certain the gas has cleared away before re-lighting. Safety control valve and thermocouples can be installed to automatically shut of the gas supply if the flame is extinguished. However, your model is not equipped with these devices. DO NOT USE THE BURNERS IN ENCLOSURES. Even with safety controls, 100% supervision of the burners when in operation is required.

20) DO NOT OPERATE ABOVE PRESCRIBED OPERATING PRESSURE. EXCESS PRESSURE MAY CAUSE BLOWOUT AND EXPLOSION AND RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS BODILY INJURY.

A. Do NOT direct flame toward the gas cylinder as heat causes increased pressure and the safety valves may open releasing gas into the air, which can explode if ignited by the burner flame. Keep burner six (6) away from all fuel containers. Keep temperature of all gas cylinders below 100^oF, and if possible, install cylinders outside of enclosed areas.

B. Use regulators and the hoses supplied with the burners and connect a regulator to the LP tank so that gas pressure in the hose is regulated at all times.

C. Use of incorrect hose, regulator, POL, or excess flow valve may lead to gas leaks and explosion or asphyxiation. If the brewery is purchased without a hose, POL, excess flow valve, or regulator or any of these items are lost or damaged, contact Sabco Industries to obtain information on the correct parts to use with each burner.

21) CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS

A. Incorrect assembly of burners can result in fire, explosion, death or serious bodily injury from asphyxiation due to leaks.

B. Follow assembly and operating instructions in owner’s manual, supplied with the brewery, before using burners. If any owner’s manual is lost or unavailable, contact Sabco Industries to obtain a copy.

C. If you suspect a leak, or small gas odor, EXTINGUISH ALL FLAMES AND SPARKS IMMEDIATELY. Refer to owner’s manual and/or call the technical support number of LP-gas dealer.

D. LP-gas is heavier than air and settles in low areas. Do not install LP gas burning equipment in an area where any gas may settle.

22) INSPECT BURNERS REGULARLY

A. Inspect burners at time of installation and purchase, for gas leaks at least once a month and whenever accidental damage occurs. Test procedures are included in the owner’s manual indicated with each brewery.

B. If the gas burning equipment is not working properly, remove from service immediately. Have equipment repaired and tested by an authorized person before putting it back into service.

C. Gas pipe joint compound that is resistant to liquefied petroleum gases should be used on all connections. Call Sabco Industries if you need assistance in identifying an appropriate compound.

D. Use only Sabco Industries replacement parts or burners.

23) UNDERSTANDING REGULATORS (Propane Models Only)

If your Brew-Magic Brewery was designated for use with L.P. (Liquid Propane), then it is equipped with a ‘Pressure Regulator.’ This small device can be found pre-installed to the flexible pressure hose used to connect the brewery to your L.P. gas cylinder. The regulator is the heartof your L.P. gas system,. It is an automatic device with working parts which move continuously. Consequently, it requires more care, protection, and attention than any other part of the gas system. The regulator used with the ‘Brew-Magic’ Brewery is an adjustable type.

The basic function of the regulator is to take a high and varied inlet pressure from the gas cylinder and reduce it to a safe and consistent outlet pressure to the gas appliances. For example, normal cylinder pressure can vary depending on the outside temperature from a high of 250 pounds per square inch (PSI) to a low of 7 PSI. Whatever the pressure, the regulator’s job is to reduce it to 15 PSI outlet pressure or less, and supply downstream at this pressure in whatever volume is required to efficiently operate each appliance as the demand is made.

HOW SHOULD YOUR REGULATOR BE MOUNTED? The regulator will function regardless of the position in which it is mounted. However, it is recommended that it be mounted with the adjustable control knob in an upright position for easy access.

24) ABOUT FLEXIBLE HOSES

Original Equipment Flexible Hoses are manufactured to strict standards and are listed by Underwriters Laboratories and/or Canadian Gas Association. High Pressure Hoses (Pigtails) are assembled from hose which has a rating of 350 PSI working pressure and a burst rating of 1750 PSI. High Pressure Hoses must also withstand a pull test of 400 pounds. The Low Pressure Hose has a rating of 1 PSI, however, the hose has a working pressure rating of 125 PSI and a burst strength of 600 PSI, and must withstand a 200 pound pull test. The major enemies of Rubber Hose are sunlight (ultra violet rays) and ozone. Consequently, your hoses should be checked periodically for signs of aging. The average life of LP hoses is two to three years.

For your protection, check your hoses before each session’s use and each time your LP gas tank(s) are refilled for signs of deterioration or weather cracking. Protect the hoses from direct sunlight whenever possible and be sure when replacing your hose that you purchase properly rated, UL or CGA listed replacement hose assemblies.

25) WHAT IS REGULATOR FREEZE UP?

A regulator does not freeze up, nor will LP gas. However, as the gas passes through the regulator it expands and cools and moisture in the gas or in the regulator will turn to ice. This ice can build up and totally or partially block the orifice and thus partially or totally block the fuel supply. There are a number of things you can do to prevent this type of freeze up:

1) Be sure your LP cylinder is totally free of moisture before it is filled.

2) Be sure your cylinder is not overfilled. This is particularly important if you have a permanently mounted ASME tank.

3) Keep the valves on empty cylinders closed.

4) Have your LP dealer purge the cylinder if freeze up occurs.

5) Have your LP dealer inject methyl alcohol in your cylinder.

6) Install a two-stage regulator if your system has only a single-stage regulator.

Lighting the Burners

WARNING:

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFOR PROCEEDING. FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INFORMATION REGARDING SAFE USE OF PROPANE, BURNERS (TORCHES) AND LP-GAS REGULATORS. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.

CAREFULLY PERFORM THE FOLLOWING STEPS:

1) Be sure all 3 burner hand control valves are in the ‘OFF’ position (90 degrees from the pipeline).

2) Connect the LP-gas regulator to the LP-gas source (not furnished). Tighten LP regulator nut in a ‘clockwise’ direction.

3) Open the outlet valve on the LP-gas source, two full turns.

4) CAUTION, BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP, CHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR POSSIBLE GAS LEAKAGE (SEE WARNING #16 ON PAGE 7)

5) While slowly opening one of the 3 ‘Brew-Magic’ burner valves, light the top of the corresponding burner using a long match, wick, or striker. NEVER PUT FACE OR HANDS DIRECTLY OVER A BURNER WHILE LIGHTING!

6) Adjust flame size or intensity by opening or closing the appropriate ‘Brew-Magic’ burner valve. Adjust burner flame size so that it does not extend beyond the outer edge of the kettles.

IMPORTANT!

EXCESSIVE TORCH BURNER HEAT CAN BE HARMFUL TO YOUR BREWERY’S DIAL THERMOMETERS. To repeat... ADJUST THE FLAME SO THAT IT DOES NOT ROLL OUT AND AROUND THE BOTTOM EDGES OF THE KETTLE.

Programming the Controller

THIS IS NOT THE VISION SERIES PROCEDURE. PLEASE REFER TO YOUR USER MANUAL, OR UPDATE THIS PAGE YOURSELF. :)

The ‘BREW-MAGIC BREWING SYSTEM’ possesses a ‘state-of-the-art’ digital microprocessor thermal controller which has been customized specifically for use with this brewery. Repeatability in brewing is determined by your ability to exactly control all those factors which can ‘influence’ the final product. Certainly temperature control is critical! You will be pleased to find this exacting control with the BREW-MAGIC SYSTEM, following these few simple programming steps:

IMPORTANT: NEVER RUN THE PUMP MOTOR WHEN LIQUID IS NOT MOVING THROUGH

THE PUMP. PUMP MOTOR DAMAGE COULD RESULT!

1) Plug in the unit and observe that the digital controller, as well as the 3-wayoperations switch are both illuminated.

2) Let’s look at the controller keypad:

A) RETURN KEY (oval shaped arrow key). When pressed repeatedly, this key will cycle the user through 3 modes of indicated temperature.

I. PRESENT TEMPERATURE: The temperature that is currently being reported to the controller by the thermocouple.

II. DESIRED TEMPERATURE: The target temperature that the brewer requests.

III. OFFSET VALUE: A correction that makes the kettle thermometer reading exactly match the controller output reading. This is important because you want the controller and thermometers to ‘speak’ the same language during the brewing session!

B) UP & DOWN ARROW KEYS are used to select your ‘Desired Temperature’ and if necessary to select an ‘Offset Value’ for the controller.

3) LEARNING TO USE THE CONTROLLER

The following simple procedure will quickly make you an expert when it comes to the Brew-Magic Controller. This procedure will calibrate the controller Offset Value and show you how to quickly program and monitor your desired Mash temperature.

Time for some ‘hands-on’ experience!

a) Using the Return Key, cycle the controller to the Offset Value Mode which displays the letter H or L in front of a number. Using the Arrow Keys, set this number to zero as a starting point for the calibration process.

b) Fill the MASH TUN 1/4 full with plain water. Following all safety instructions for the propane burners, light the MASH kettle burner and bring the water ‘thermometer’ temperature to approximately 135 degrees using a slow flame.

c) Turn off the burner.

d) Open the appropriate manifold valves (#4 & 5) to allow recirculation from the bottom of the MASH TUN to the pump motor, then back to the top of the MASH TUN.

e) Turn the 3-way Operations Switch to the ‘HEAT’ position. This switch position activates the electric heat exchanger as well as the pump motor. (Note that the ‘PUMP’ position is used for recirculation only, without heat). You should now hear the pump motor turn on and notice a steady stream of water into the MASH TUN from the top inlet of the vessel. The strength of this stream can be adjusted by partially closing the manifold valve (#5), which controls flow from the pump motor.

f) Place a lid on top of the MASH TUN.

g) Using the Return Key on the controller, cycle to the ‘DesiredTemperature Mode’. This is indicated when the display light signal ‘SP’ (SET POINT) is illuminated above the Return Key.

h) Using the Up & Down Arrow Keys, ‘set’ the desired temperature to 145 degrees (145⁰represents a good mid-range brew temperature).

i)Press the Return Key pas the ‘Offset Value Mode’ (which displays the letter H or L in front of a number) and back to the ‘Present Temperature Mode’. Notice that the controller is now requesting heat from the heat exchanger as indicated by a small light in the upper right corner of the display.

NOTE: The controller will not be able to activate the heat exchanger unless the 3-way Operations Switch is in the HEAT position. Keep in mind that the controller will always tell you when heat is required to satisfy the current ‘Desired Temperature’ setting, but won’t be able to add heat unless pump recirculation with heat is activated. This prevents wort caramelization within the exchanger.

j) Watch now as the controller will proceed to gradually increase the temperature of the water by means of the heat exchanger. As the water temperature rises, the controller ‘Present Temperature’ value also increases. When the controller value reaches 145 degrees, you will notice that the small ‘heatrequest’ indicator light in the display will go off. This informs you that the present temperature of the recirculating liquid now matches the ‘desired temperature’ as programmed into the controller. Therefore, the controller no longer requests that heat be added. Once your programmed ‘Set Point’ temperature is attained, the controller will then cycle the exchanger on and off precisely to maintain this temperature.

k) Compare the controller’s ‘Present Temperature’ reading with the MASH kettle thermometer’s temperature. Minor differences may exist even though both the thermometer and controller are receiving their information from probes located in the same area (Model4+). Keep in mind that mechanical thermometers may react more slowly than electronic ones. If a continuing difference or‘offset’ exists, however, a correction may quickly be entered into the controller’s ‘Offset Value Mode’ so that both controller and thermometer reflect the same temperature reflect the same temperature throughout your brewing session. Here’s how...

a) Using the Return Key move into the Offset Mode. If, for example, the thermometer is 5 degrees higher than the controller, you need to set the controller 5 degrees HIGHER also to make them both agree. Using the Up & Down Arrow Keys, set the offset value to ‘H 5’ (higher by 5 degrees). Likewise if the thermometer should read 3 degrees lower than the controller, you need to calibrate the controller 3 degrees LOWER. Therefore set the offset value to ‘L 3’ (lower by 3 degrees).

b) Use the Return Key to move into the ‘PresentTemperature Mode.’ Observe that both controller and thermometer now agree exactly. The controller will remember this calibration even when turned off. Recalibrate periodically to maintain perfect temperature control while brewing.

NOTE: WE SUGGEST THAT YOU NEVER ADJUST THE THERMOMETER IN ORDER TO MATCH THE CONTROLLER. The thermometers you have received are pre-calibrated by the factory and are quite accurate.

System Preparation

It is recommended for each use of the ‘BREW-MAGIC’, the following procedure for filling the unit be completed in order to properly remove (vent) any trapped air within the system recirculation lines. Prior to performing actual brewing procedures, it is also suggested that you learn the location and specific function of each valve by practicing with water only. Simply read the following “Venting and Filling Procedure” and eliminate the use of grain until you have a good feeling for the controls. The system ball-valves have been numbered 1 through 5 for convenience. During the actual brewing process, refer to the ‘Brew-Magic Map’ page to help you locate and understand each. When you feel confident to begin brewing, start with “System Pre-Clean” below and follow each step carefully. Comments by system designer and master brewer Conrad Keys has been periodically added for your interest.

System Pre-Clean

The Brew-Magic Brewing System does an amazing job of eliminating all of the variables that are typical of small batch brewing. There remains 1 variable, however, that the designers of this system have absolutely no control over. Namely, system cleaning prior to brewing. This is the final variable! There are many ways to clean the Brew-Magic. There are many stainless brewery cleaning chemicals that work well. Even household liquid, unscented, automatic dishwasher detergent does a beautiful job. Sabco does not endorse any particular one method either. We strongly suggest, however that you adopt a careful method and write it down! Doing the same procedure every time will ensure repeatablity. If you modify this method, write down your changes. Proceeding with written, repeated methodology will ensure repeatable, excellent brewing technique.

Clean immediately after brewing to assure that all brewing residue has been completely removed from all surfaces. Refer to the ‘Care and Maintenance’ section of this manual for a more ‘in-depth’ discussion regarding cleaning methodology. After brewing, you may decide to do the major cleanup, then put the Brew-Magic into storage until the next brewing session. At that time you may then decide to follow a sanitizing procedure just before brewing. The bottom line here is to start brewing with equipment that is cleaned according to your written parameters. Many brewers assume that their brewery is clean after a month in storage. This may or may not be true. To produce beers that are truly repeatable however, all such potential variables must be eliminated. Commercial quality depends upon it.

Water Preparation

Initial preparation or blending of your brewing water is most ideally performed in the SPARGE vessel.

[Comments by Conrad] “First on the agenda is to prepare your brewing water. Depending on your water source, and the style of beer you plan to brew, this can mean anything from doing nothing, to using distilled water and adding back the essential mineral salts. In my case here in Houston, I have moderately hard water (150 ppm total hardness). For the style of beer I like to brew, this means I must blend 2/3 distilled with 1/3 filtered tap water and add 15 grams of calcium chloride for the benefit of my yeast. I mix my brewing water in the SPARGE vessel. (Be sure to close valve #3 before mixing.) I have found that about 14 galons will work out about right for a 10 gal. batch”

Grain Preparation

Grain Preparation is a very hot topic amongst Brew Magic Users. Please read all data before making your decisions.

NOTE: The grain crush is very important to the efficient and smooth operation of the Brew-Magic Brewery.

[Comments by Conrad] “Next prepare the malted grain. Crush all of the malt you plan to use in this brewing session. If the crush is too course, you will not get proper yields. If the crush is too fine, you could be inviting a ‘stuck mash.’ Our goal here is to just crack the grain, exposing the malt starch to the hungry enzymes. Excessive crushing turns the grain starch into flour! Check the crushed grain to insure that the husks are split lengthwise, allowing some of the malt starch to fall out of the husk, giving the enzymes access to the remaining malt starch in the husk.”

THIS CAN ONLY BE DONE WITH A ROLLER MILL! “Anything else tends to break and damage the husk, causing tannins to leach out of the beer, resulting in an unwanted astringent taste. Also, the damaged husk will not be as effective of a filter bed. I have my roller mill rollers set at about 70 thousandths apart. This works very well with the 2 row grains. With the 6 row grains I have to either close the gap a few thousandths or run them through twice. Either way works very well.”

Brewing

Venting and Filling Procedure

IMPORTANT: USE OF THE RECIRCULATION PUMP IS NOT RECOMMENDED UNTIL THESE STEPS ARE COMPLETED, TO AVOID POSSIBLE PUMP AIR LOCK.

Close all valves #1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 (refer to Brew-Magic ‘Map Page’ )
Prepare brewing water in SPARGE vessel. It is not necessary or suggested that you bring the brewing water up to ‘strike’ temperature prior to saturating the grainbed. (See manual section regarding: ‘Water Preparation’)
Open valve #3, and valve #5
Open valve #4 to begin filling the mash tun. Brewing water will begin to flow from the SPARGE vessel through the system and up into the MASH vessel by way of the siphon. This step purges trapped air out of the system lines.
Close valve #4 when water in the MASH vessel has reached a level high enough to just cover the screen in the false bottom.
(For models only that have a vent screw on top of the heat exchanger. Models after Jan. 2003 have automatic heat exchanger venting)
Locate the air vent tap at the top of the heat exchanger and visible through the opening adjacent to the SPARGE vessel. Using a screw driver, slowly open the air vent. This step purges trapped air out of the heat exchanger. Close the vent when water begins to flow out of the heat exchanger. Be prepared for possible minor clean water spillage.
Fill the MASH vessel with properly prepared grain, smoothing it out on the top to make it fairly level (see: Grain Preparation) The discharge tubing near the top of the MASH should never be pointed downward into the grain bed, but rather be positioned pointing horizontally at the top, outer edge of the grain bed so that the returning liquid will produce a gentle whirl pooling effect. This stirring action is important for mash temperature uniformity.
Once again Open valve #4 and allow water from the SPARGE vessel to flow up and into the MASH. The water will stop flowing when the level in both containers is equalized. Therefore by adding more water to the SPARGE vessel, you will continue to fill the MASH. ‘Back-filling’ the MASHin tis way will help to eliminate the possibility of dry spots within the grain bed and this procedure is recommended. Our goal will be to cover the grain with water by 1 inch.
If you prefer, however, not to back-fill the grain bed by adding more water to the SPARGE vessel, with valve #4 closed and valve #3 and #5 remaining open, turn the operations switch to the PUMP position and pump just enough brewing water from the SPARGE up and to the top of the MASH. Either way add enough brew water to the mash to cover the grain by about one inch.
Very gently and briefly, stir the grain through the water to remove possible air bubbles or dry spots. CAUTION! Over stirring adds an unwanted variable!
Let this sit for approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
Close valve #3. Valve #4 should remain open.

Flow-Rate Management

Before turning the pump on, it’s important to understand how the liquid will flow and how you control it. Take a close look at valves #3 and #4. They are used to turn on and off the flow of liquid from the SPARGE and MASH kettles respectively. That’s all they do, so when you turn them on, turn them completely on by opening these ball-valves fully open while in use and fully closed when not in use.

Now look at valve #5. After you have decided to use the liquid form from either the SPARGE or MASH kettles and have turned on either valve #3 or #4 as described above, liquid will freely flow to the pump. When it’s time to turn on the pump, the pump is going to move this liquid to the top of the MASH kettle, however you will be able to control the flow rate of this liquid by adjusting valve #5. Flow rate is increased when the valve is opened more fully and decreased as it is gradually turned off.

Flow rate to the MASH kettle is important!

It is possible that liquid taken from under the MASH kettle’s false bottom via the siphon can be evacuated by the pump at a faster rate than the liquid can flow through the grain bed. This depends on the type and density of the grain bed. Don’t expect them to be the same for every brew. Therefore, it is very important that valve #5 be used to restrict the return flow to the MASH and thereby establish an equilibrium above and below the grain.

Watch the liquid level above the grain bed. After you have initially filled the MASH kettle to approximately 1 inch above the grain bed, it is very important once circulation begins that this 1 inch level be monitored by adjusting valve #5. If this liquid level rises, it means that there is less liquid under the grain bed and more liquid above it. This action can compact the grain and possibly induce a ‘stuck’ mash. Keep the grain bed in ‘equilibrium’ and the risk of a stuck mash will go away.

With simple monitoring, your grain bed will never need to be stirred. Stirring adds a variable that is less than repeatable. Let the bed remain a ‘static’ filter and allow the recirculation to bring the wort to the grain rather than you bringing the grain to the wort by stirring. If you do this, you’ll experience an amazingly consistent and clean runoff.

Final Preparations

The system is now properly filled and vented. By now the grain should be in the Mash vessel, prepared brewing water should be about 1 inch over the grain bed. After the 15 - 20 minute rest, valve #3 should have been closed and valve #4 should have been opened.

In the MASH kettle, a short length of clear plastic tubing furnished with your BREW-MAGIC should be attached to the short stainless steel tube near the top-inside of the vessel. Let the plastic tubing hang down and lay on top of the grain bed near the outside edge. Liquid flowing from this tube needs to be directed horizontally in order to gently push the 1 inch of liquid and turn it slowly in a whirlpool fashion. NEVER allow the flow of liquid from this tubing to be directed downward into the grain! This can cause channeling of the liquid into the grain bed and create an uneven distribution of heat.

Proper orientation of the Mash inlet tube will be indicated by a slow turning of the top liquid layer and show no signs of bubbling or frothing near the surface. This technique, if done correctly, will eliminate hot-side aeration during the Mash and distribute heated liquid in a very uniform pattern. As this ‘blended’ liquid is pulled through the grain toward the siphon, layering or stratification of heat in the Mash vessel shall be non-existent.

IMPORTANT:

Before beginning recirculation, close down valve #5 by about 2/3. The flow of liquid going into the MASH should only squirt out about 3-4 inches. This is important! Failure to do this may cause the liquid to pump faster than it can flow through the grain bed, possibly resulting in an ‘impacted’ grain bed and a stuck mash.

Now turn the Operations Switch to the ‘Pump’ position to begin recirculation.

Monitor the level of liquid above the grain and maintain the same 1 inch level with which you started.

Be sure that a gentle, ‘no bubble’ whirlpool is established.

Time to Program the Controller! (Refer to ‘Programming the Controller' in this manual)

Use the ‘Enter’ key on the controller to cycle thru the 3 modes until you see the ‘SP’ (Set Point) light turned on. When you see this, you’ll know that you’ve arrived at the‘Desired Temperature’ move. Now use the up and down arrow keys until you ‘input’ your first desired temperature or set point. Once again use the Enter key to return to the“Present Temperature” mode. That’s it!

Notice the small light in the upper, right corner of the display turn on. The controller is telling you that your desired temperature is higher than the present temperature. In the next step, when the 3 way switch is set to the ‘Heat’ position, the controller will automatically turn on the electronic heat exchanger and begin to add heat to the recirculating liquid in an effort to reach your desired ‘set point’.

The Mash Cycle

[Comments by Conrad] “I am going to assume you have the recirculation going by this time and everything is going well. The 3 way switch is in the ‘Pump’ position at this time and you’ve programmed the controller with your ‘desired temperature’. Be sure to check on the plastic tubing in the Mash Tun. f you notice anything foaming in the Mash, then something is wrong. Re-check the installation of the plastic tube and make sure that the flow rate is not too high. The flow should not be over 1 or 2 gallons per minute. You will notice the wort is cloudy as it circulates through the clear tube going into the Mash Tun. This is normal and soon will be crystal clear at the end of the mash.”

THE MASH CYCLE - continued

Now it’s time to begin the heating process. Light the burner under the MASH kettle and trn the 3-way operations switch to the ‘HEAT’ position.

WARNING

DURING THE BREWING PROCESS, THE EQUIPMENT AND BREWING WATER WILL BE EXTREMELY HOT! ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE MITTS AND USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING THE EQUIPMENT DURING BREWING

IMPORTANT: EXCESSIVE BURNER HEAT CAN BE DAMAGING TO DIAL THERMOMETERS! ADJUST THE FLAME SO THAT IT DOES NOT ROLL OUT AND AROUND THE BOTTOM EDGES OF THE KETTLE.

[Comments by Conrad] “At this stage you will have 2 heat sources going at the same time. It is best if you let the gas heat ‘assist’ in the temperature rise to slightly higher than the desired setting and then let the electric heater maintain the temperature after it is reached. While the burner is on, the thermocouple probe will be sensing recirculating liquid that is slightly warmer near the bottom of the kettle.

When the mash thermometer temperature is approximately 2-4 degrees above your desired target temperature, turn OFF the gas burner and let the controller take over from there.

You will find that the mash temperature will lower as recirculation has a chance to blend the temperatures. The controller will now maintain your desired mash temperature within very close tolerances. After about 30 minutes, I reset the controller for my desired saccharification temperature (usually about 150 degrees F), light the burner under the MASH TUN, then wait for target temperature to be reached. I then turn off the gas burner and watch the wort start to turn crystal clear. The complete mash cycle can take between 1 and 3 hours, depending on the style of beer produced. You can start the iodine testing after 30 minutes of reaching saccharification temperature. After the iodine test shows negative it is important that you mash for at least one more hour.”

The Sparge

[Comments by Conrad] “About half way through the mash I usually do any additional water treatment necessary. I like to adjust the remaining sparge water to about 5.5 pH at this time with one of the several available acids such as phosphoric or lactic. Then I light the burner under the SPARGE kettle and heat the water to around 160 degrees F. I don’t like to sparge with water hotter than 165 degrees F because of the risk of leaching tannin from the grain husk. As soon as saccharification is complete the hot wort seen through the tubing will be very clear. Then I light the burner under the MASH TUN and run the temperature up to 160 degrees F and hold it for 15 to 20 minutes for the ‘Mash-Off’. Be sure that the long stainless tube that hangs down into the BOIL kettle and stops just above the stainless screen near the bottom, is attached.”

[Comments by Conrad] “This is to provide a gentle transfer of the hot wort to the BOIL kettle so as to prevent hot side aeration as well as any possible irreversible flavor damage.

With the sparge water and the mash at about 160 degrees F, OPEN valve #3 from the SPARGE kettle, then slowly CLOSE valve #4 coming from the MASH kettle. NOTE: By doing it in this order, you will always have an open inlet source to the pump and avoid creating a vacuum in the inlet piping and possible pump cavitation (stalling).

Now, OPEN valve #2 at the bottom of the MASH kettle causing the hot wort to run into the BOIL kettle.

Turn the operations switch to the ‘PUMP’ position at this time, since the heater is no longer required. By draining the hot wort into the BOIL kettle, and also draining the hot sparge water down through the grain at the same time, the last of the sweet sugars are washed out of the grain bed, effecting a complete sparge. You will notice that the sweet wort running into the BOIL kettle is nice and clear.

User Comments

[Comments by BrewMagician] Make sure you are switching from recirc to sparge correctly, check the manual.

Other than that, keep sparge water in at a high flow rate, and mash water out at a trickle. When your water in the MT gets to be about 3-4" above the grain, shut off the pump. When it gets to 1" above the grain, turn it back on again.

This is the Brew-Magic Shuffle, learn it well. Just kidding. Do this until you get a handle on fly sparging. It's a hybrid fly/batch sparge.

The Boil

[Comments by Conrad] “As soon as the hot wort starts to run into the BOIL kettle, light the burner under the kettle. This will insure that the boil will begin almost as soon as the sparge is over. Just before the beginning of the boil, add about 1/2 oz. of hops. This relieves the surface tension of the liquid and helps prevent boil over. Even so, you must watch the wort very closely as boiling temperature is approached. If it looks like a boil over is certain, lower the flame on the burner for a short time until further attention isn’t necessary. Make sure you get a good rolling boil, as anything less may not give you a good hot ‘break’. For light beers, no more than an hour boil is recommended. Boiling for more than 1 hour tends to darken the beer and does not increase the quality.”

The Finish

[Comments by Conrad] “After the boil, you’re on your own. There are so many techniques and opinions on what constitutes a good brew, that I will not attempt to go much further. I have taken you through the boil. How you choose to force chill, or filter, what hopping rate, yeast type, or fermentation techniques you intend to use... are all personal preferences. However, here are some of the techniques I use and consider important to commercial quality brewing:

a) Force chill as rapidly as possible.

b) Transfer as little trub over in the fermentation as possible.

c) Always ferment under controlled temperature.

d) Use nothing but pure liquid yeast strains.

e) Aging or lagering at cold temperatures is very beneficial for both lagers and ales.

d) Use 1/4 teaspoon of ‘Break Bright’ about 20 to 30 minutes before the end of the boil.

Care And Maintenance

Care and Maintenance

As with any piece of food preparation equipment, your BREW MAGIC SYSTEM needs to be cleaned after each use. This will keep difficult to remove ‘bio-growth’ from building up on the internal plumbing, and will also reduce preparation time for the next brewing session. Start by disconnecting and removing the kettles. Disconnect false bottoms, siphons and sight glasses and clean those separately. Scrub the kettles out with a light, synthetic scrub pad and inspect thoroughly.

IMPORTANT:

NEVER USE STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN STAINLESS STEEL. CARBON STEEL DEPOSITS LET ON THE STAINLESS FINISH COULD CAUSE RUST TO DEVELOP.

Examine the heating element and heat exchanger chamber. (See ‘Removal of the Heat Exchanger’ in this manual). Clean as necessary to eliminate possible build-up or scale. When done, reconnect the kettles to the plumbing and use a ‘no-suds’ detergent made for stainless to recirculate through the plumbing using the system pump motor.

NOTE: Chorine bleach won’t hurt stainless steel in if used in very mild concentrations. However, CHLORINE BLEACH MAY ATTACK THE PLASTIC RECIRCULATING PUMP AND SHOULD NEVER BE RECIRCULATED THROUGH THE SYSTEM. You may use a mild chlorine bleach solution (1/2 cup to 10 to 15 gallons) for sterilization and cleaning of the stainless kettles, but never let this solution come in contact with the pump parts for any length of time. Higher concentrations can also damage stainless steel.

Start the solution in the sparge vessel and pump it into the mash kettle (it may be recommended by the detergent manufacturer, or you may decide on your own, to heat the solution prior to recirculating). Recirculate for a while to and from the mash kettle. Finally, siphon the solution from the mash kettle into the boil, then out to drain. You may follow this with CLEAN water.

Just before brewing, many brewers like to do a quick pre-clean with a santizer the do a final rinse. (See ‘System Pre-Clean’ in this manual). Either way, the degree of cleanliness and timing is your decision. To date we’ve never heard of an infection caused by over cleaning.

The frame and related exterior parts should never need anymore than a light wipe with a damp cloth. The burner grates are very durable, however due to their continued exposure to high temperatures, they will lose their brand-new appearance. This is very normal. We suggest simply keeping them clean and applying a light coat of spray cooking oil after each use to prevent corrosion.

The Heat Exchanger

IMPORTANT:

NEVER USE STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN STAINLESS STEEL. CARBON STEEL DEPOSITS LET ON THE STAINLESS FINISH COULD CAUSE RUST TO DEVELOP.

Removal of Heat Exchanger Element

IMPORTANT:

NEVER USE STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN STAINLESS STEEL. CARBON STEEL DEPOSITS LET ON THE STAINLESS FINISH COULD CAUSE RUST TO DEVELOP.

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Categories: SETUP | BREWING | MAINTENANCE

Main Page

From Brew Magic Encyclopedia

Contents

Categories

Setup

Brew Magic Map Page

Assembly and Setup

Safety Instructions

Safety Instructions - Burners

Lighting the Burners

Programming the Controller

System Preparation

System Pre-Clean

Water Preparation

Grain Preparation

Brewing

Venting and Filling Procedure

Flow-Rate Management

Final Preparations

The Mash Cycle

The Sparge

User Comments

The Boil

The Finish

Care And Maintenance

Care and Maintenance

The Heat Exchanger

Removal of Heat Exchanger Element

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